For some reason, the overwhelming majority of canned wine makers think that men will never, ever be interested in consuming their products. Hence labelling which often makes them look like they should be next to the earrings in a branch of Claire’s Accessories. West + Wilder has gone for a more neutral, bucolic look to its wines; the detailed, and very lovely, drawings of plants and flowers on the labels are more akin to something you’d see in an educational book on botany. As for the taste? It’s a mixed bag with the white wine impressing most. It’s attempting to ape the breezy charms of US West Coast wines from Oregon and Washington and the result is rather charming; a Sonoma-esque lightness of touch to the blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Viognier Muscat and Chardonnay, with just the right amount of sunshine-imbued acidity.

Cans can be better for the environment, too. They weigh less and tend to be recycled more than glass. Plus, some of these cans are transported in bulk to Britain before being canned here, which saves on energy.

A quick word on stockists: since the start of the pandemic, most companies have invested in e-commerce sites and we’ve become used to buying things in bulk. For some of these products, I’ve included a direct source, but for others, there’s a retailer.

For this test, I tasted the samples out of a glass, then straight from the can. The sweeter, simpler wines tended to taste better well-chilled out of a can, whereas the more complex ones – especially the reds – should be poured into a proper glass.